Denali 2008

SUNDAY, MAY 25, 2008

Team Hoping for a Break in the Weather

The team is at Medical Camp still. The last two or three days the winds have been 40 to 60 mph in camp. The wind has reached 110 mph at 17,000 and above. Twenty-five people have been stuck at 17,000 for the last four days. There is a team that is climbing the Cassian Ridge route that hasn't been heard from in five days. The weather has been pretty miserable lately. However, there is supposed to be a slight break in the wind tomorrow - slowing to 35 mph on the way to 17,000. Another storm is moving in on Thursday. The team has been able to scrounge up some additional food from some climbers going down the mountain. They were actually offered a week's worth of food from a firefighter from England and his team but they graciously declined their offer. If the reduction in wind really happens (there is a two day window) then the team is going to try for 17,000 tomorrow. They are going to pick up their cache at 16,000 and move up. They will make a full assault on the summit on Tuesday - again, only if the break in the wind really happens. Wes said he feels a little weak due to the fact that they have been conserving food. He has more of his snack food cached at 16,000. He is going to take in as many calories today to gain strength for the possible move tomorrow. Stay tuned.

SATURDAY, MAY 24, 2008

Another Day at Camp IV

Latest update from Wes indicates that the team is still waiting out the storm at Camp IV. They are predicting 90 mph winds for the next week. The team will see what the status of the weather is tomorrow. It will then be decided if the team is able to move up to 17,000 or if they will pick up their cache at 16,000 and come off the mountain.

THURSDAY, MAY 22, 2008

Team Still at Camp IV

Here is the latest update from Wes. The team is still at Camp IV. The storm that was expected on Friday came in a little earlier. Mike (the lead guide) said they could have tried to move to 17,000 yesterday but if they did they would have had one shot at the summit and that was it. They decided to stay at 14,200 until Sunday. The storm is supposed to clear by then. They will go for 17,000 on Sunday and bring five days of food with them. This should give them about two or three good days for summit attempts. Another RMI team has just made it to 14,000. Wes' team has been spending the last couple of hours helping them set up their camp. Yesterday Wes and some of the guys got inspired and decided to make a couch and a dining room table out of ice blocks. Now they have a place to sit and relax and put their feet up. They also made a Greek goddess without a head or extremities. They've put a helmet and an ice axe next to her. She is an unofficial team member. They haven't decided on a name for her yet. Today they decided to make an igloo. It is big enough to stand up in. Wes made bench seating all around the inside. He says it is really cool. Wes said he feels like an "animal" and really strong. The team is doing well. They are anxious to move up to High Camp but will have to hang out at 14,000 for a couple more days.

TUESDAY, MAY 20, 2008

Rest Day at Camp IV

Today the team rested at Camp IV. They spent the day eating, napping and hanging out. If the weather is good tomorrow the team plans to climb to high camp at around 17,000 feet. There is a high wind advisory for Friday with winds potentially up to 60 mph. If this is the case, the team may attempt to summit on Thursday before the weather turns. They were expecting to get a weather update within the hour. However, if the weather does not cooperate, they will be staying at 14,000 to ride it out. Wes said he can see clouds blowing up from lower on the mountain. The guides are really motivated to get the team as high up the mountain as possible. Wes said there was a rescue today. A Spanish woman had summited yesterday but did not get back to 17,000 until 3:00 a.m. The rangers had to lower her down from 17,000 first in a basket and then skied her down in a sled to Medical Camp. They weren't able to airlift her out today but she will be flown off the mountain tomorrow. It sounds like she has severe frostbite on her hands and may lose her fingers. All of Wes' team is doing well. They had one very minor injury. Jerry cut his finger with a knife and Wes had to dermabond (surgical crazy glue) it together. He said Jerry's finger will be fine and he is doing well. Wes also talked to one of the volunteer medics at Medical Camp named Paul. He gave Wes a tour of Medical Camp. He suggested Wes come back as a volunteer medic next year. Wes said he feels great and is ready to move higher. Let's all hope the weather cooperates and the team is able to move to 17,000 tomorrow.

MONDAY, MAY 19, 2008

Cached a Load at 16,300

Wes just called with the latest update (6:45 pm Alaska time). Today the team climbed using the fixed lines to above the head wall at around 16,300 and made a cache. They hung out at 16,300 for about 30 minutes and then headed back down to Camp IV to rest. It was about a 5 1/2 climb today. They will probably spend the day at Camp IV tomorrow resting. If the weather is good on Wednesday they will head to 17,000. However, there is a low pressure system moving in so they will just have to wait and see what happens. The team is doing well. Wes said the weather is perfect at the moment - sunny and about 0 degrees. At 16,300 it was about minus 5 degrees. They are firing up the stoves right now to get some water made for their water bottles. After that it will be hot drinks, dinner and bed! Wes has been sleeping really well and eating like crazy. He hasn't had any nausea so far this time around. Britta, I passed on your message to Wes who said he would be sure to tell Brian.

MONDAY, MAY 19, 2008

Retrieved Cache at 13,600

Latest Update: According to a couple of sources, yesterday the team retrieved their cache at around 13,600 and brought it back up to Camp IV. This took a few hours. The team hopes to carry another cache up to around 16,000 or 17,000 feet today and then go back down to 14,000 for tonight. The weather is good. Lows at night are about minus 10 to 15 degrees. Team is doing well.

SATURDAY, MAY 17, 2008

Team at 14,300 - Camp IV

The team climbed to 14,300 today - Medical base camp. They just got there about an hour ago (5:15 pm Alaska time) and have been digging out spots to set up the sleeping and kitchen tents. It was about a 5 1/2 hour hike today. There are about 70 people currently at Camp IV. Wes was talking to the ranger and he said it was minus 17 degrees last night. They are gearing up for another cold one tonight. The weather is really nice right now - clear skies, can see clouds below them at about 9,000 or 10,000 feet. Wes has great views of Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter. Tomorrow they plan to go back down to Windy Corner to pick up their cache. They will bring it back to Camp IV and then take it easy the rest of the day. It should only be about a 2 hour hike tomorrow. If the weather is good they will try to head for the next camp around 17,000 feet on Monday. The team is still doing well. A couple of people got really tired on the hike today and had to be urged to keep going but made it just fine to camp. Hopefully getting some rest tomorrow will help restore their energy. I have passed on all of your well wishes to Wes who is passing them on to the rest of the team.